1979 Ford Mustang Carburetor Information
The 2 carburetor styles used in 1979 were the Motocraft 2150 and the 5200/6500 holley carburetors.
|9510 CARBURETOR IDENTIFICATION||DRY
|FAST IDLE CAM LINKAGE CLEARANCE||FAST IDLE RPM||DECHOKE||CHOKE SETTING|
|D9ZE-AYA||7/16||13/16||2||0.138||With link in inbound hole of pump lever||Check with underhood decal||0.115||Index|
|D9ZE-BFB||7/16||13/16||3||0.125||With link in inbound hole of pump lever||Check with underhood decal||NA||3 Rich|
|D9ZE-BGB||7/16||13/16||2||0.125||With link in inbound hole of pump lever||Check with underhood decal||NA||3 Rich|
|D9ZE-BHB||7/16||13/16||2||0.125||With link in inbound hole of pump lever||Check with underhood decal||0.250||3 Rich|
|D9ZE-BJB||7/16||13/16||2||0.125||With link in inbound hole of pump lever||Check with underhood decal||NA||3 Rich|
|5200 & 6500 carburetors|
Efficient carburetion depends greatly on careful cleaning and inspection during overhaul since dirt, gum, water or varnish in or on the carburetor parts are often responsible for poor performance.
Overhaul the carburetor in a clean area. Carefully disassemble the carburetor, referring often to the exploded views. Keep all similar and look-alike parts segregated during disassembly and cleaning to avoid accidental interchange during assembly. Make a note of all jet sizes.
When the carburetor is disassembled, wash all metal parts (except diaphragms, electric choke unit, pump plunger and any other plastic, leather, fiber, or rubber parts) in clean carburetor solvent. Do not leave the parts in the solvent any longer than is necessary to sufficiently loosen the dirt and deposits. Excessive cleaning may remove the special finish from the float bowl and choke valve bodies, leaving these parts unfit for service. Rinse all parts in clean solvent and blow them dry with compressed air if possible. Wipe clean all cork, plastic, leather and fiber parts with a clean, lint-free cloth.
Blow out all passages and jets with compressed air and be sure that there are no restrictions or blockages. Never use wire or similar tools to clean jets, fuel passages or air bleeds. Clean all jets and valves separately to avoid accidental interchange.
Examine all parts for wear or damage. Especially, inspect the float(s) for dents or distortion. Replace the float if fuel has leaked into it.
Check the throttle and choke shaft bores for wear or an out-of-round condition. Damage or wear to the throttle arm, shaft or shaft bore will often require replacement of the throttle body. These parts require a close tolerance of fit; wear may allow air leakage, which could affect starting and idling.
Throttle shafts and bushings are not normally included in overhaul kits. They can be purchased separately.
Inspect the idle mixture adjusting needles for burrs or grooves. Any such condition requires replacement of the needle, since you will not be able to obtain a satisfactory idle.
Test the accelerator pump check valves. They should pass air one way, but not the other. Test for proper seating by blowing and sucking on the valve. Replace the valve as necessary. If the valve is satisfactory, wash the valve again to remove moisture.
Check the bowl cover for warped surfaces with a straightedge. Closely inspect the valves and seats for wear and damage, replacing as necessary.
The proper carburetor overhaul kit are recommended for each overhaul. These kits contain all gaskets and new parts to replace those which deteriorate most rapidly. Failure to replace all of the parts supplied with the kit (especially gaskets) can result in poor performance. I recommend that you always buy the major repair kit. It contains all the parts needed to completely service the carb, and if I have the carb apart to start with, why not do a good job!